Craftsman 4-ft X 2-ft Storage Shed

The completed shed with a slanted roof prototype showtime. Camber roof mode is also known equally a skillion, shed or lean-to. It is a single sloping roof and can be idea of equally one-half of a pitched roof.

When I was in the process of moving to my new firm, I knew that I couldn't take my shed with me. It was my first one! Information technology was a 6×8 beauty with a gable roof and a double door. It took nearly 6 months (ugh) for me to complete. I was devastated!

To make up for my loss, I consoled myself with the knowledge that I'd demand to build a new storage shed to house all my stuff. I'd accumulated a snow blower, lawn mower, generator and much more. It would be my second shed in 2 years. My new baby!

In this postal service, I'll walk you through the stride-by-step process of building my new shed from scratch.

How to Build a Slanted Roof Shed: Footstep by Stride

Step 1: Gathering Requirements

As I began thinking almost my new shed, I considered my needs. I decided to build a bigger shed with more than space. I wouldn't accept to move the lawn mower to get to the ladder, or the snowblower to dig out the generator. I'd even have space to store some edifice materials instead of in the garage.

I planned out my requirements; I didn't want whatsoever fancy features or dormers. I wanted something practical. Thinking about my other shed, I made a list:

Roof:

Due to the climate and a lot of snowfall, information technology needed a greater slope.
Something easy and applied I could build on my own.
Easy to install covering materials.

Foundation:

I didn't desire my shed sitting on the ground.
Elevated would mean drier and it would concluding longer.

Siding:

Easy and cheap to install.

Pace 2: Check Local Law Restriction

My get-go step was to look upwards the local building regulations for some answers:

Do I need a building let?
What is the greatest size shed I tin can build without, and with, a permit?
Are at that place any restrictions on building materials?
Any setbacks?
Is there a maximum height for a shed?
Any requirements on door widths?

I then checked with the local utilities to ensure my shed wouldn't interfere with their services. To be safe, I likewise checked with my neighborhood association to see if they had whatsoever restrictions.

According to my boondocks regulations, I could build a shed up to 10×14 without a building permit. I emailed the local building department to see how they measure the shed size; by outside perimeter foundation footprint, or the roof projection.

They responded apace and politely. They confirmed that I didn't need any permits and included other helpful information. The size of the shed would be calculated by the foundation footprint. Also, the maximum summit of a shed, measured from ground level to the highest pinnacle of the roof, is set at 14′ and must never exceed the height of the business firm.

The regulations allowed a storage shed to exist built in the side yard, lawn, or in the rear setback; just never over the septic field. Included in their reply was also a list of canonical materials for exterior siding which was useful.

Step 3: Cull Size and the Style of the Shed

Here'south my setup: I reviewed what I needed to fit in the shed today, considered a few wants for the time to come, looked at my budget, and came up with the size. I'd seen a lot of sheds but had some specific ideas in heed, later doing some research; I came upward with my shed style.

Size

I decided to accept full advantage of the regulations and build a 10 x 14 shed.

Shed manner

I wanted a simple roof. I didn't want ridges or valleys which are a lot of work and can leak. I decided on a Slanted Roof. It'south similar to a shed or lean-to roof, or a clerestory roof, but has i visible difference. It has a greater slope. Basically, a slanted roof style is a apartment roof tilted high up at one border to create a very steep slope.

Advantages:

Significantly cheaper to build than a gable or multi-slope roof since in that location's less textile in the roof.
No ridges or valleys to leak.
Faster and easier to build. No complicated angles or cuts.
A higher wall on 1 side for ladders or storage.
Clear roof space without truss or rafters.
Sheds rain and snow quickly.

Disadvantages:

Expensive to convert a mono pitched roof to a multi-slope roof since all walls need to go the aforementioned height.
Snow can build upwards against the lower roof wall and cause dampness or rot in the wall.
Fast run-off of rain or snow tin can cause ground erosion behind the shed.

Step 4: Decide a Location for the Shed

The next stride is the almost important part: find the best location for my shed.

The building regulations crave the shed to exist a minimum of 5' from the holding line, 5' from the house, and 5' from any other buildings.

I decided to place my shed 7' from the debate with my neighbor. It would hide their shed and give the trees room to abound. Information technology also placed the shed closer to my driveway which would make it easier to get my snow blower into action.

Stride 5: Prepare the Structure Site

Once I decided on the site for my shed, I cleared the area of ground cover. I added 2' on each side of the shed perimeter and hammered in wooden stakes at the corners to requite me the area I needed. I removed any sod and the top layer of soil, and then slightly compacted the site to pack down whatsoever loose soil.

Pace 6: Build Shed Foundation

One of the important decisions when building a shed is the foundation. It provides a flat, level, stable base of operations on which to build your shed. The foundation also helps to continue the shed off the ground preventing dampness and rot.

I decided to use concrete deck blocks like I'd used on my beginning shed. I used adjustable 4×4 steel deck supports which fit into the deck blocks to make leveling easier. I institute these on sale at my local domicile improvement store but you lot can observe similar deck supports on Amazon.

Why I choose this type of foundation?

Easy to build a stable base for the shed
An inexpensive base of operations, even with the ground preparation and gravel.
The shed is off the basis allowing underneath ventilation and clean storage on the gravel.
The main benefit, it's very easy to level the base during the construction. Also, if the basis settles and any of the blocks sink the steel deck supports make information technology easy to re-level.

Hither'south the plan of foundation

I used 24 deck blocks and 24 adjustable four×4 deck supports. I wanted to make sure nothing would make the flooring sag…ever! I could nearly shop a tank in my shed!

If I were to do it again, I'd reduce the number of blocks and supports by one-half and add together galvanized joist hangers for blocking to add together structural rigidity to the floor frame. The full and linear load for #2 grade 2×half-dozen on a four' span is 303 pounds per linear foot.

Information technology is an excellent foundation for motorcycle sheds or sheds with heavy machinery, like a lawn tractor, but for my needs it was overkill.

Once I had the deck blocks and the adjustable four×4 supports, I needed to incorporate the supports into the blocks. Using concrete mix and post-obit the footstep by step process I secured the supports into the blocks.

Here are the steps:

Picture 1: Clean any loose material from the patio blocks.
Picture 2: Clean whatsoever oils or grease off the adjustable 4X4 support.
Picture show 3: Disassemble the support.

Motion-picture show 4: This is how I chose to install the supports.
Picture 5: With the supports installed this way in that location would be more rigidity and greater support.
Film six: To go along concrete out of the bolt cavalcade I taped it closed.

Motion picture 7 & 8: Moisture the concrete cake to form a meliorate connection with the new concrete. Fill the hole and slots in the deck block, and then button the taped terminate of the iv×iv support into the hole in the physical cake.

Picture nine: Ensure the back up plate is angled and so information technology is resting on the concrete block equally well as the new concrete. Make clean up any mess and smooth the fresh concrete. Now allow the concrete cure.

I recommend laying out all the blocks together and doing the same step to each block earlier moving to the next step.

While the blocks are curing, put down the garden cloth and spread out a level layer of gravel.

I laid out the deck blocks according to the plan where they would line up with the flooring structure. Leveled the blocks and used the adaptable supports to level the floor structure.

Related: How to Build Shed Base with Deck Blocks

Step seven: Build Shed Floor

Now the fun and piece of work begin!

What You'll Need :

Tape Measure
48-Inch Level
Round Saw or Miter Saw
Nail Gun

Gather the tools you'll need so you don't have to go looking for them later on: hammer, saw, level, wrench, screwdriver, tape measure and pencil. Have the nails and screws handy too.

You don't need any fancy tools, but a chop saw makes short work of cuts and angles and a round saw is bully for cut plywood. I besides got really lucky; my local abode improvement store was liquidating Paslode Impulse cordless framing nailers. I was able to score i and it saved me a lot of fourth dimension.

The floor frame was really unproblematic; 6 pressure level treated 2x6x14' and 2 force per unit area treated 2x6x10' planks. My local supplier didn't have any 14' planks so I got sixteen' instead. I knew the actress lumber wouldn't go to waste.

The adjustable 4×4 deck supports are designed for truthful iv×4 lumber so I needed to add spacers. The leftover pieces from the 2x6x16's came in handy.

I sealed the end cuts with CopperCoat Green wood preservative.

To secure the adjustable supports, joists and blocks together, I used #8 x 2 in. deck screws. It is a good idea to check that the joist structure is foursquare before securing information technology.

I added pressure level treated 2×6 blocks about every four' to create a filigree style floor base of operations. The blocks prevent the floor joists from twisting under load and provide more support so at that place'd be less bounce between the joists. I used my new nailer to fastening the boards and blocking with ring shank galvanized framing nails. Definitely a time saver!

The grid created by the blocking.

Before I began to attach the three/4 inch pressure treated plywood, I again checked that the floor structure was square and level.

A ten×14 base ways some the plywood would have to be cut. I too didn't want to accept to clamber around under the shed someday to tighten the adaptable 4×4 supports.

With this in mind, I planned the layout for the plywood so I can remove 2 inside pieces

and have access to all the inner blocks.

I used #8×2 inch deck screws to fasten the plywood. All I have to do to adjust any of the inside supports is remove one or both of the plywood pieces and tighten or loosen the necessary nut(southward).

Step 8: Building the Walls

When planning my shed I determined where windows and the doors would go. I decided on 2×4 lumber on 16-inch centers for the walls, and 2×6 for the rafters. I'd besides need ii×half-dozen lumber for the window and door headers. I then laid out the stud plan for the wall construction. This made it easier to brand a materials list of what needed to be purchased.

There are several methods to purchase lumber. You can call your local supplier and have them deliver the materials on your list. This works swell if you don't have access to a truck or a trailer. But, you get what they pick which may non be what y'all'd pick if doing it yourself. There may also be a delivery charge.

If yous accept access to a truck or trailer, then you can selection your lumber…usually. Some lumber yards don't want yous handing the lumber for various reasons. Virtually Box Stores allow you to selection your ain lumber though. If y'all tin can pick your own lumber, here are a number of things to watch for.

Twists: Await forth the narrow edge of the lumber, if information technology has a noticeable twist, put information technology back. Information technology will be hard to straighten and makes attaching drywall or sheathing difficult.

Bend: Look along the narrow edge again, if the lumber bends slightly to the left or right, it is notwithstanding usable. Information technology tin can straighten with blocking, or when nailed or screwed to a straight piece; every bit in a doubling upwardly for a trimmer or corner.

Warped, Curved, or Biconvex: Look forth the flat length of the lumber. If the lumber bends slightly to the left or right it will class an arch or a dip horizontally. It is still useable for joists or the trusses/rafters, non corking as a stud. Ensure they are laid arch up; the weight of the flooring or roof material (gravity) may pressure information technology direct.

Pro Tip: Buy extra lumber for blocking (noggins) the walls at the 4-foot tiptop. Information technology keeps the studs from twisting and gives forest to blast sheathing or drywall to. It also provides shelving betwixt the studs.

Pro Tip: E'er measure the dimensions of your lumber. If you demand 12 feet and get ten instead, you lot won't exist happy.

With the lumber at the build site, I was set to begin. Using the plywood floor equally a work table, I paired the top and bottom plate for the back wall side by side flat on the deck.

I ensured they were xiv feet long, then following my stud program I marked where the studs would become, drawing the lines with a small rafter foursquare; marking an X on the correct side of the line where the stud would go.

I carefully measured i stud and cut it to length; remembering that for a six-ft. wall tiptop I needed to subtract a double top plate and the sill plate. Using that stud, I marked the balance of the studs for that wall and cutting them too.

I then laid out the studs between the superlative and bottom plate, lined them up with the marks, and reached for my hammer. My handy dandy nailer made short work of nailing the plates to the studs. Once the wall was built, I slid it off the deck and leaned it out of the way confronting the fence.

I used the same process to build the windowless side wall. Remembering to cut the height and bottom plates seven inches short of 10 anxiety then they fit between the front and dorsum walls.

The studs were the same length equally those in the back wall. Afterwards nailing it together, I ensured it was square and nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold information technology foursquare. Nailing information technology to each stud and plate it crossed. I then slid it out of the way and leaned it against the tree.

Pro Tip: Use screws to attach the diagonal braces, easier to remove.

The side wall with the window had a few differences. I used a double 2×half dozen header above the window. Sandwiched betwixt the 2x6s I used ½" plywood spacers.

The header transfers the weight of the structure above the window and carries it through the rex stud-trimmer stud combination to the floor. The distance between the header and the rough sill and the two trimmer studs is the rough opening for the 27 ½" x 27" high window.

Don't forget the cripple studs between the rough sill and the bottom plate of the wall. After careful measuring and cut, I repeated the steps followed for the other stop wall.

The concluding wall was the tallest (9 feet) and heaviest wall with the most openings. Once built it would exist the first to cock. I laid out the bottom plate and marked the stud locations, including king and trimmer studs for the door and window.

This window would exist 27 ½" ten 37 loftier. Regulations restricted door size at a maximum of 6 feet; so I framed the crude opening for a 76 ½" high x vi' wide door.

I framed the two ends of this wall with triple studs. The outer stud connected the terminate of the top plate and lesser plate. The middle supported the end of the top plate to the bottom plate.

And the inner stud supported the double sill plate of the upper windows, which acted as the elevation plate for the studs. I used a double two×6 header above the door and the window with plywood spacers sandwiched between.

Using the skillion roof design meant I could take windows up near the eves. The pinnacle plate for the big wall I rotated on edge and used ½" spacers between the two 2x4s.

This made the 2x4s a header to carry the roof weight above the high windows, and also a summit plate. I used double 2x4s to support the stud wall top plate and the wall meridian plate/beam.

The double 2×4 supports were equally spaced across the wall creating 5 openings 29 ¾" wide 10 xiv ¾" high. In one case I had this wall together, I ensured it was square and again nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold information technology square. I was now ready to stand the walls up.

Four stud corner: I used a four-stud corner to create a stiff corner and post for supporting the roof. This configuration likewise provides more fabric for nailing exterior sheathing to, and provides support for attaching interior drywall (if needed).

Attach blocks along the perimeter of the flooring to preclude the wall from sliding off the base equally you elevator information technology into position.

The Claiming: How to raise the heavy front wall lone (without a helper)?

My Solution: With a car jack!

I realize in that location are other ways to lift a wall by yourself, and mine wasn't possibly the safest, only it was artistic and it worked. No matter what method you choose, know your escape routes to rubber!

On a twenty-four hours that wasn't windy, I lifted the top edge of the wall and put some blocks nether it. Once it was high enough off the flooring, I slid the automobile jack under it.

I secured a couple of straps to the upper beam then I could prevent the wall from leaning out once it was up. I used cutting-offs from building the wall and then I had dissimilar lengths for bracing and lifting. Earlier each lift with the car jack, I ensure it wouldn't roll too.

Next time I'll attach a long 2×4 brace on the outside of both ends and lay it out on the ground so that they elevate in toward the foundation equally the wall lifts.

As the wall lifts, higher they act as braces also.

With the wall vertically leveled, I secured diagonal braces to the upper role of the wall and to stakes hammered into the ground.

Once the big wall was level and secured in place, I nailed the bottom plate to the floor. I and so lifted the end walls into place, leveling and nailing them to the floor and front wall.

I placed the bottom plate of the back wall onto the flooring. Nailed in perimeter blocks to prevent it from falling off the floor, and lifted the wall up until information technology butted into the two end walls.

I attached nailing blocks to the floor deck and leveled and braced the walls. The gable ends were built in place on the terminate walls.

Related: Shed Insulation Guide

Footstep nine: Shed Wall Sheathing

I used 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x viii ft. T&G OSB to sheath the walls with two" deck screws to fasten them in place. It was a scrap of fun installing it alone. iv ft. x8 ft. sheathing fits horizontally or vertically on xvi" eye stud walls.

I went vertically for two reasons. I wouldn't have to lift up a sheet to sit on another canvass; and less adventure of moisture sitting on a vertical seam vs a horizontal seam.

Pro Tip: Attach a level plank or block to the perimeter of the platform confront at the height the sheathing volition offset. This provides a rest for the sheathing to sit down on and frees up a manus or two for fitting the T&G and for fastening.

Pro Tip: Ensure the groove is articulate and open earlier putting the sheet up; saves a lot of frustration.

I used felt newspaper (tar paper) to wrap the walls for several reasons. Tar paper is cheaper and dries faster than Typar. A 3'x72' roll of #15 felt paper costs around $fifteen, a three'x100' roll of Typar is about $50 in my local. I used 2 rolls of felt newspaper.

I began wrapping the shed at the bottom and worked my fashion upward; overlapping the top layer over the bottom to shed any wet away from the woods.

I used a paw stapler and a lot of galvanized staples. Next time I'll use a hammer stapler, it'south easier on the paw.

Footstep 10: Build a Skillion Roof

The material you chose to cover your roof with is very important. It is what keeps water or snowmelt from percolating through into your shed. Information technology protects the wood of your shed from rot and problems and rodent damage, and from the elements. An important decision with many choices; asphalt, steel, aluminum, clay, slate, or cedar milk shake.

There are advantages and disadvantages to all roofing materials, do your research and make your determination. I chose asphalt shingles. The toll was right, color adequate, and with the single slope roof design and direction my shed faced, only my neighbor would see them.

Advantages:

Cheap! Cobblestone shingles are one of the to the lowest degree expensive roofing materials. They frequently proceed sale too.
Easy installation even for a beginner. Follow the instructions on the bundle wrapper or cheque out videos online.
Cobblestone shingles are widely available in unlike colors and textures.

Disadvantages:

Volition degrade with time; may last 7 to twenty years before needing to be replaced.
Are a petroleum product so an ecology effect and toll when disposing of them.
Susceptible to air current and rut damage. They transfer the solar gain into your building.

Ventilation

If your shed is fairly airtight, you'll demand to put in ventilation; peculiarly if storing gasoline or pesticides in it. No sense poisoning yourself. Add a vent in each gable end nearly the roof line.

This allows cross ventilation and the roof overhang adds some protection to the vents. I went with the natural ventilation through the gaps between the roof and the walls. I may demand to screen them to proceed bugs and critters out though.

The Roof

I used 2x6x16ft pine for the rafters.

Angle cut the ends, notched for the walls, and so installed them at 16" centers.

Simpson Strong-Tie 18-judge hurricane ties to help secure each rafter.

I built ladder ends to get over the gables for the overhang at each end. I and so added blocking betwixt each rafter every iv ft. to back up the edges of the sheathing, and to prevent the rafters from twisting under snowfall load.

The fascia boards across the ends of the rafters preclude twisting and provide a finished border.

I sheathed the roof with 23/32 in. x four ft. x eight ft. T&K OSB. A fun challenge is doing it alone. I covered the OSB with tar newspaper; starting across the low edge offset and working in overlapping layers to the high edge.

I left enough to fold over the fascia boards. I used aluminum nails to adhere the aluminum drip edge. The aluminum fascia slides up under the drip edge and is fastened to the fascia board with aluminum nails. It oftentimes hangs ½" beneath the fascia board and the soffit sits on the bottom lip.

Follow the instructions on the shingle wrapper for proper installation. I used i½" electro-galvanized roofing nails to adhere the shingles.

Pro Tip: Before lifting sheathing onto the roof, build yourself a "ladder". Lean and secure 2 2x4s or 2x6s planks against the fascia lath of the depression wall; angled from the ground to the roof.

Adhere a horizontal "step" to the two planks upon which to rest the capsule. The wider the "pace", the more than pieces it will hold. Place several pieces of capsule onto the step so the stick upward above the roof line. You can then stand on the wall top plate or the rafters and lift each piece up as needed; less going upward and down a ladder.

Pro Tip: Utilize pressure treated lumber for the fascia boards and cease rafters.

Stride xi: Build Double Shed Doors

Ever scraped your knuckles trying to behave something through a door?

I built my shed with a 6' wide double door since it was the largest the Regulations allowed. I tin can open one or both. Information technology's much easier to motility equipment in or out of the shed.

Mine open outward, so I don't waste storage space within. Likewise, it's easy to seal against the elements and rodents. And I don't scrape my knuckles.

Call up to cut the sill plate out of your doorway.

I decided to build my ain door. I used 1x6x8ft T&K knotty pine for the door. The T&G has low shrinkage, and shouldn't accept gaps or warps in the future. The cross and diagonal braces on the back are leftover 2×4 lumber. The thicker woods makes it stronger and gives more than wood for the hinges to attach to.

Cut the pine to length, glue the groove and push together, and and so adhere to the back braces with 1½" screws. I gave the doors ii coats of white paint. Information technology covered the knots, but with time some would go visible.

The doors were heavy, so I used 8-inch heavy duty spring T-hinges. The springs would help keep the doors shut.
To improve the security of the shed, I replaced ane of the screws in each with a bolt.

Pro Tip: The diagonal braces always point downward and into the hanging jamb; never away (apart from old western movies).

Related: 31 Ideas and Plans on Building A Shed Door

Step 12: Frame the Windows

Your shed should have at least one window. It lets light in and makes information technology easier to meet. If it opens, it tin too let fresh air in so the door doesn't have to stay open. The Skillion Roof style makes information technology like shooting fish in a barrel to put extra windows upwardly high to allow light in without making the contents of the shed visible to unwanted visitors.

I cutting the felt paper diagonally from corner to corner at the windows and door. Wrapped the felt into the opening and stapled it in place.

I and then used 1×four fence boards painted with two coats of white to frame and trimmed out the windows and door.

The windows are made from virtually unbreakable polycarbonate sheets. The front and side windows were cut from 0.118 in. clear polycarbonate sheets. The upper windows are fabricated from one/4 in. clear multiwall polycarbonate sheet panels.

I used a seven-i/4″ 40-tooth round saw blade to make the cuts. To avoid scratches, I didn't remove the protective film from the sheets until the cuts were done. I clamped the panels to my workbench so they wouldn't vibrate or move. An aluminum guide rail kept my cuts straight.

I installed the window pieces using nailing strips. I added decorative grids to the inside of the lower windows which also add some rigidity to the plastic window.

Footstep xiii: Install Siding

The local edifice department provided me with a list exterior siding that I could utilize. Originally I was planning to apply T&G pino planks. Afterwards calculating the cost and considering the hassle of staining the pino every 2 – 3 years, I went with vinyl siding.

Advantages:

Cheap! Vinyl is an cheap production if yous pick biscuit, white, greyness, light blue or khaki. If you want a depression volume color or profile, information technology will cost more than.
Durable! Vinyl is a very forgiving and flexible material. Information technology tin take bangs and scrapes and stand up to almost any weather condition if installed correctly. The color also doesn't fade.
Maintenance free; once installed properly the siding seldom requires any maintenance. It may require a hosing downward to remove dust or dirt, but no painting or staining every ii-3 years.
Easy, almost "no-skills-required" installation. Follow the simple instructions and mensurate advisedly, it's quick and piece of cake.
It'due south also a waterproof barrier for your shed and its contents.

Disadvantages:

Farthermost temperatures are ane of the few disadvantages to vinyl siding. Vinyl will expand at hot temperatures and contract on cold days. This ordinarily isn't a problem if properly installed. It can shrink and flex without find. Merely when cut and installed at cold temperatures, it can warp at hot temperatures. This tin go far susceptible to wind harm and looks atrocious.
Oil based products can stain vinyl, then exist careful when cleaning paint brushes and machinery.
When installing vinyl, remember that cut edges are precipitous. Have some band-aids available.

Installing the vinyl siding was like shooting fish in a barrel. I just followed the manufacturer's instructions. Even the tools are simple! A hammer and the same galvanized roofing nails used for the shingles. Fiskars scissors to cut the siding, and I rented a snap lock punch to put nail holes where needed.

Begin with the starter strip at the bottom and attach the exterior corners. Make certain these are level! Install the flashing and J-channels for the windows and doors, and the under-sill trim too.

In one case these were all in place, I installed the siding panels.

The siding project only took me ane weekend!

Cost of DIY Building 10×fourteen Storage Shed

At present for the question how much did this cost me. Right around $3,800.

Final Thoughts

Five years afterwards:

Building this unmarried sloped roof shed was an fantabulous learning experience. Preplanning was essential to the build. The shed style allowed more windows near the high wall roofline which adds a lot of light.

The greater roof slope sheds snowfall and water easily as well. I presently have ample space for storage and no squeak or bounciness to the floor. And it looks Awesome!

Hopefully, this commodity has provided you with some useful information on how to build a slanted roof shed . Your comments are appreciated. If yous know someone who is thinking about, for example, building a shed to store a cycle, share with them if you liked it.

Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for about of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is passionately interested in dwelling comeback, renovation and woodworking.